News from the Middle -
an update on the state of the non-coastal wine regions of America

Dec '03

Overview:

The goal of the moment for the wineries of the rest of America is to create new traditions from new grapes, yet in established, familiar styles. History should help.

Once upon a time, in the mid nineteenth century, the Cincinnati Wine Company was the most successful wine venture in America, producing sparkling wines from Catawba. One hundred and sixty years ago, El Paso, Texas was the site of the most important fortified wines in America . And about one hundred years ago, Missouri was the most significant wine producing state in the country, with the equivalent of a million cases of wine being shipped through the port of St. Louis each year.

Despite the historical curiosities of these forgotten vineyards, the wine regions outside of the U.S. coasts must invent their own wine traditions, working with often unknown grapes and reinventing styles.

In many ways, things are going along swimmingly. The acreage, number of wineries and volume of wine in the middle part of the country have roughly doubled in the last ten years. Sales are commensurate. In states such as Missouri, sales of local wines represent nearly seven percent of all wine sold in the marketplace, a significant number when considering the power and hegemony of the major national wine companies, such as Gallo, Beringer Blass, Constellation and Kendall Jackson.

Only about ten percent of the wineries in these states have distribution outside of their own areas. Instead, they are mostly dependent upon cellar door traffic. The winery as tourist destination is an American invention and most of these wineries have become adept at supporting and promoting their own wine tourism, through festivals, grape-picking and stomping parties and through local media.

But this success breeds a certain amount of snobbish contempt. Many if not most tourists enjoy sweeter, softer styled wines and many of these wineries make tasty versions of these wines.

Those wineries that sell large volumes of tourist friendly wines become known only for the sweet wines. Their reputations suffer, with likely customers eschewing the drier styled wines simply because of this notorious success. And the local restaurant trade becomes even more resistant to promoting the local wines, since they are perceived as simple and sweet.

The restaurateurs are themselves often confused by the names of the hybrid grapes used throughout the Midwest and Southeast. Most American customers are fairly sure how a Chardonnay or Merlot is likely to taste. But few have ever heard of Vignoles, Vidal Blanc, Norton or Marechal Foch, much less a dry Vignoles.

This reliance upon hybrids and even native varieties is necessitated by the climate. As warm and humid as the summers can be, it is the winters in the Midwest that are most trying. The “Chinooks” and “Alberta Clippers”, the dramatic winter temperature shifts accompanying air masses flowing from Canada, have successfully ended the lives of almost all commercial vinifera vineyards in these states. In the Southeast U.S., endemic Pierce's Disease is a guarantee that hybrids remain the primary choice for the foreseeable future.

And as the large wine producing states of Texas, Virginia and New York are abandoning hybrids (except when producing dessert wines), these states will have to go it alone in their efforts to explain these grapes to their customers. As if their marketing challenges were already not great enough.

We're from the government and we're here to help.

The regulatory environment is a bit improved from last year. For some states, such as Iowa, Missouri, Illinois and Minnesota, newly funded efforts in viticulture offer the hope of better understanding in existing grapes and new grapes are in the offing.

In places such as Kansas, Nebraska and Texas, growers themselves are finding that their efforts are no longer bedeviled by state government efforts as in the past. Throughout the U.S., a greater number of vineyards and wineries is shortening the learning curve and multiplying the opportunities for experimentation.

More importantly, the regulatory atmosphere has changed for wine sales, and especially interstate wine sales via the internet or the phone.

States that have recently changed their shipping laws to allow consumers direct access to wines include South Dakota, South Carolina, North Carolina, and that's just those states which are within the purview of this individual report.

By most accounts, this loosening of regulations will continue, though perhaps not as rapidly as in 2003.

Opinion: Imitation is not flattering

While each of these areas has its unique challenges and assets, each region within this territory can learn from the errors and breakthroughs of the others. The success of Norton in Missouri, for instance, asseverates to the need to seek the ripest possible conditions for each grape.

So, rather than merely trying to compete with Missouri Norton, other regions have to find their own Nortons, as it were. Chambourcin may find one of its best homes in the southern Illinois . Chardonel's best aromatics may be found in cooler regions to the north.

In Washington State, Syrah is the most sought-after new grape. But across the border in Idaho, Hell's Canyon's owner, Stephen Robertson, isn't ready to jump onto the Syrah bandwagon just yet. And while Sangiovese and Tempranillo appear to offer promise in Idaho, Robertson believes that they may be far better in Northwest Oregon . Instead “Viognier,” as he puts it, “is a no brainer in southwest Idaho .”

But the misguided enthusiasm for new or famous grapes isn't the only error being committed by many new wine regions; at times, these regions are trying desperately to emulate the styles of other wine regions, for better or worse.

For instance, instead of trying to make a Chardonel that tastes like California Chardonnay, with its attendant buttery, oak-laden tones, why not make a uniquely-styled wine? Tim Puchta of Adam Puchta Winery is intent upon using Chardonel to make something crisp and citrusy, like a New Zealand Chardonnay.

Puchta is one of a growing number of winemakers keenly aware of the larger marketplace, focused not merely upon California's competition or even upon the marketing juggernaut of Aussie wines, but upon all possible wine styles and origins.

The historical excesses of California are being visited upon some of these wines. The trend for all self-serious and ambitious wineries is towards dry table wines, with high alcohols and strong lashings of brand-new oak.

But there is great ferment. In Texas, the great promise suggested a decade ago, long deferred, appears possible again. Idaho has quietly moved towards making wines that can stand alongside its partners in the Pacific Northwest . Missouri is setting the standards for French hybrids in America, as well as a native variety, Norton. America 's best non-West Coast sparkler is made in New Mexico . Colorado 's output suggests it has potential as great as any other state in this survey, though still unrealized. Wisconsin should be able to make wines that can stand alongside Michigan and eastern Canada, if not those from better-known areas.

And the rest of the states? Well, all of them make wine, some better than others. Judging from the quality that exists intermittently, only will and time (and perhaps money) stand in the way of delightful table wines throughout the United States.

Grapevine:

AVA's without meaning - North Carolina 's Yadkin Valley, at 1.4 million acres hardly suggests a selective sense of soil or climate, but that remains typical of most of America 's new AVA's. Still, NASCAR star Richard Childress is opening a winery there under his own name in 2004, and that will likely bring fame to the area.

Prices for some hybrids are out of balance with the marketplace, due to the growth in wineries and the faddishness of some of the newer grapes. Both Chardonel and Traminette have seen prices for grapes that approach those for high quality California Chardonnay grapes. $1000 or more per ton is not uncommon.

Don't give up on these grapes – In the northern Plains, Lacrosse and Edelweiss are beginning to show good consistency as quality producers, for clean table wines and dessert wines, respectively. For reds, St. Croix has seen some tasty bottlings the last year or two.

The Asian Ladybug crisis – the problem continues to pester, if not panic Midwestern wine producers. This year saw ladybug problems in Nebraska , though fewer problems in Missouri and Illinois. The imported bug taints wines with the smell and taste of rancid peanut butter.

Vintages:  

2003- The theme for many of these areas is spring damage. Whether in central Texas, eastern Wisconsin or Missouri, freeze and frost damage created very small crops, in some cases one third of the normal size. But the wines that were made are sometimes very good. In Missouri, the reds are particularly worthwhile, while the whites are short in quantity. In Wisconsin, whites are among the best yet seen. Texas lost most of their white wines in the spring frost and reds were significantly down as well. Colorado had a healthy crop however, and Idaho saw another hot and great year, with great color and aromatics.

2002 – Idaho had another warm and sunny year, the harvest having finished before the second week of October. The whites are balanced but reds are a bit high in alcohol. Missouri 's white grapes were not as aromatic as in 2000, but the reds are intense and concentrated. Georgia was a victim of the excessive rains that the rest of the Atlantic Coast saw, including the Carolinas ; the wines a mixed bag. In the southwest, it was yet again a drought year, and wines show good concentration as a result, though some Arizona wines are a bit high in alcohol. Colorado struggled while Texas saw cooler than normal temperatures and higher than normal precipitation, with very short crops.

2001 – In Idaho even ripening and a warm, quick year resulted in good quality in whites and reds. White wines are even crisper than usual, and the reds show balance and length. Some lovely white wines were made in this vintage in Missouri, though the Vignoles was difficult. Some reds are a bit stingy, but some Nortons are delightful. For New Mexico and Arizona, this was year four of the drought and forest fires raged throughout the area. The wines are as muscular as those in Texas .

2000 – Idaho 's vintage is warm and ripe but there is very good acidity, that will result in wines of some longevity compared to 2001 and 1999. Missouri 's wineries created wines as well balanced as any in the last four years, and some Nortons are tops. It was another good year in New Mexico and Arizona with cool conditions making for balanced wines.

1999 – Idaho saw another sunny, warm year, but the crop was fairly small. What was there was really supple, rich and shows elegance. Missouri experienced some challenges throughout the season and at harvest yet offers wines with solid fruit and structure. It was a very good year for many in New Mexico, the second drought year in a row. Arizona had some hail, with small, concentrated and tannic crops.

1998 – Idaho 's harvest was warm, easy and clean, although the cycle began with cool weather. The resulting wines have pronounced acidity, but alcohols went a bit high with some examples. Amazing rainstorms hammered many of Missouri wineries, yet some of the reds are pretty, even charming, though those are the exceptions. It was a good year for some in New Mexico, Arizona and Texas, but too short and hot for others, lacking in balance.